Another Robbery
Today Günter had his camera snatched in broad daylight around 14:00 while in the heavily policed Pelourinho in Cidade Alta. Manfred, the other Austrian yachtie said he knows of 8 yachties who have been mugged/robbed in recent weeks.
Salvador is the #2 tourist destination in Brazil after Rio but after a week I'm struggling to see why. The location is quite stunning on cliffs along the shore of Bahia de Todos os Santos and the colonial architecture of the Pelhourinho is attractive but many buildings are badly neglected and it is difficult to relax given the very high risk of assault.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
Salvador is the #2 tourist destination in Brazil after Rio but after a week I'm struggling to see why. The location is quite stunning on cliffs along the shore of Bahia de Todos os Santos and the colonial architecture of the Pelhourinho is attractive but many buildings are badly neglected and it is difficult to relax given the very high risk of assault.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
Samba and Attempted Robbery
This morning I attempted to buy a new halyard. The chandler did not take foreign credit cards. I took a taxi back to a cash machine but when I returned the chandler had closed until moday. Grrr.
That evening I found another tourist office which had a bit more information about what was going on in the Cidade Alta. I ended up going to the Theatroxviii, for a performance of O Amor Comeau of which I understood very little, and attending two Salsa peformances. One at the Colonial on Terreiro de Jesus and then at a bar on Rua San Miguel. The music at both was very high energy and the dancing very entertaining. Brazilian girls certainly know how to wiggle. The audience at both were predominately Afro-Brazilian with only a few gringos present.
My evening ended prematurely after a couple of youths tried to work a double and pick my pockets in the second venue. This was a waste of time anyway as I had heeded the warnings and only had a few Reals on me. Having failed they came back a few minutes later and demanded money saying they had a gun, which they didn't. I decided to leave and the good side of Brazil emerged when someone who had seen what happened followed me out and suggested I speak to the Policia Militar who were nearby. I said it wasn't necessary and he apologised and wished me well.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
That evening I found another tourist office which had a bit more information about what was going on in the Cidade Alta. I ended up going to the Theatroxviii, for a performance of O Amor Comeau of which I understood very little, and attending two Salsa peformances. One at the Colonial on Terreiro de Jesus and then at a bar on Rua San Miguel. The music at both was very high energy and the dancing very entertaining. Brazilian girls certainly know how to wiggle. The audience at both were predominately Afro-Brazilian with only a few gringos present.
My evening ended prematurely after a couple of youths tried to work a double and pick my pockets in the second venue. This was a waste of time anyway as I had heeded the warnings and only had a few Reals on me. Having failed they came back a few minutes later and demanded money saying they had a gun, which they didn't. I decided to leave and the good side of Brazil emerged when someone who had seen what happened followed me out and suggested I speak to the Policia Militar who were nearby. I said it wasn't necessary and he apologised and wished me well.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
Window installation
Günter Reindl on Cora Mae has been in Brazil for some time and knows Salvador quite well. He introduced me to an excellent little cafe in the Pelourinho.
In the afternoon I helped him with some boat repairs and re-installed my window. This is always a messy job as the sealant is squeezed out when the frame is tightened into position. The trick is to wait until the sealant has started to set before tightening.
Window frame with old sealant removed. The gelcoat had been damaged at original installation. This was repaired with epoxy filler.
Later I spent the evening on Cora Mae being treated to Günter's cooking and music.
In the afternoon I helped him with some boat repairs and re-installed my window. This is always a messy job as the sealant is squeezed out when the frame is tightened into position. The trick is to wait until the sealant has started to set before tightening.
Window frame with old sealant removed. The gelcoat had been damaged at original installation. This was repaired with epoxy filler.
Later I spent the evening on Cora Mae being treated to Günter's cooking and music.
Security
Security is always on ones mind. There are warnings about going anywhere on foot at night and even walking up the hill to Cidade Alta during the day. Tourists are advised to dress down and avoid carrying large amounts of money, cameras and mobiles and to avoid wearing a watch.
Today I took a taxi out to Shopping Barra. This is huge and covers three stories where it is possible to wander about and shop in complete safety.
On thursday another Austrian yacht "Cora Mae" arrived skippered by Günter Reindl a chef, musician and bon vivant.
It is looking as though it is too late in the year to sail comfortably to Argentina. As the southern winter approaches the prevailing wind moves to east of south. One option is to leave the boat here in Salvador and continue on to Argentina by other means. I can spend only six months in any one year in Brazil but the boat may be left for up to two years.
Today I took a taxi out to Shopping Barra. This is huge and covers three stories where it is possible to wander about and shop in complete safety.
On thursday another Austrian yacht "Cora Mae" arrived skippered by Günter Reindl a chef, musician and bon vivant.
It is looking as though it is too late in the year to sail comfortably to Argentina. As the southern winter approaches the prevailing wind moves to east of south. One option is to leave the boat here in Salvador and continue on to Argentina by other means. I can spend only six months in any one year in Brazil but the boat may be left for up to two years.
Boat Maintenance
Today this jack-up oil rig Petrobras AS III moored next to the marina.
I needed to do some boat maintenance including re-sealing the large starboard window which now leaked profusely, replacing the fuel tank O-ring, replacing the main halyard which has started to show signs of wear probably caused by poorly sited turning blocks. The engine oil is also due to be changed.
The window frame came out fairly easily. It was annoying to note that the leak was caused by poor original installation. Insufficient sealant had been applied.
Window frame showing water ingress.
With the widow removed the leak source became obvious at the top left corner where it had not been sealed properly.
There are numerous places close to the marina selling freshly squeezed fruit juices which are just sublime as is cooled coconut milk drunk by straw from the green nut.
I needed to do some boat maintenance including re-sealing the large starboard window which now leaked profusely, replacing the fuel tank O-ring, replacing the main halyard which has started to show signs of wear probably caused by poorly sited turning blocks. The engine oil is also due to be changed.
The window frame came out fairly easily. It was annoying to note that the leak was caused by poor original installation. Insufficient sealant had been applied.
Window frame showing water ingress.
With the widow removed the leak source became obvious at the top left corner where it had not been sealed properly.
There are numerous places close to the marina selling freshly squeezed fruit juices which are just sublime as is cooled coconut milk drunk by straw from the green nut.
Cidade Alta and the Pelourinho
After a couple of days I finally took the Lacerda Elevator up to Cidade Alta and the historic area known as the Pelourinho. Salvador was the first city in Brazil and has a wonderful legacy of colonial buildings. Unfortunately many of them are unloved and restoration efforts do not seem as far advanced as in Recife.
Lacerda elevator connecting Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. This is a lovely structure but most of the buildings surrounding it are derelict. It is dangerous for gringos after 8-9 at night.
Views of the Pelourinho in Cidade Alta
Recife is said to be the most dangerous city in Brazil. I saw nothing which would support this. However Salvador is #2 in that roll of shame but it looks and feels more dangerous. In Salvador many police carry 2 sidearms. I wonder why.
Compared with Recife the tourist office was unhelpful and it was difficult to find ones way around generally and in particular music venues.
Lacerda elevator connecting Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. This is a lovely structure but most of the buildings surrounding it are derelict. It is dangerous for gringos after 8-9 at night.
Views of the Pelourinho in Cidade Alta
Recife is said to be the most dangerous city in Brazil. I saw nothing which would support this. However Salvador is #2 in that roll of shame but it looks and feels more dangerous. In Salvador many police carry 2 sidearms. I wonder why.
Compared with Recife the tourist office was unhelpful and it was difficult to find ones way around generally and in particular music venues.
Check In
Today I did the usual round of visits to the Police Federal, Receita Federal and Capitania dos Portos. It didn't take long and I was able to get some charts I needed from the Capitania dos Portos. Here the Receita Federal did not want to see us saying they were only interested in our final departure from Brazil.
Beautifully kept grounds and buildings housing the Brazilian Navy regional office.
Even the paving has a naval theme.
More of the navy compound. Within a few minutes of this naval base the street is unsafe to walk day or night.
New yachts arrive and others depart. The overwhelming majority of boats here are french. I saw the french yacht we had moored alongside in Mindelo, Cape Verdes. He had had to motor for 5 days through the doldrums while we crossed further west and sailed right through
Beautifully kept grounds and buildings housing the Brazilian Navy regional office.
Even the paving has a naval theme.
More of the navy compound. Within a few minutes of this naval base the street is unsafe to walk day or night.
New yachts arrive and others depart. The overwhelming majority of boats here are french. I saw the french yacht we had moored alongside in Mindelo, Cape Verdes. He had had to motor for 5 days through the doldrums while we crossed further west and sailed right through
Cidade Baixa
After my first attempt at a run ashore yesterday ended in rapid retreat I confined my movements to the marina and immediate environs.
Neglected buildings in Cidade Baixa.
Manfred Marktel, the distinguished Austrian yachtsman and writer who has covered 120,000 miles in his 36ft steel yacht Maus is moored here. He recently completed a solo round trip from Salvador to South Georgia. He gave me a well produced film and photo library of this trip.
Neglected buildings in Cidade Baixa.
Manfred Marktel, the distinguished Austrian yachtsman and writer who has covered 120,000 miles in his 36ft steel yacht Maus is moored here. He recently completed a solo round trip from Salvador to South Georgia. He gave me a well produced film and photo library of this trip.
Move to Centro Nautica.
Yesterday evening I was told about another marina, Centro Nautica, which barely got a mention in the pilot book.
After chatting with the german skipper moored next to me I decided to move. He had ventured outside Bahia Marina on foot and started to walk up to Cidade Alta. He was attacked by 5 youths with machetes and a dog. One knee was slashed by machete and the other savaged by the dog. His backpack, camera and money were taken.
Bahia Marina has good facilities but it's exposure to surge, dangerous location and high cost make it a poor option.
We left at 09:30 and after stopping to fill up with fuel in Bahia Marina (R$1.89 per litre) we motored around to the Centro Nautico where we moored on the inside of Pontoon A at 10:40.
Approaching Centro Nautico.
Fort guarding the bay in which Centro Nautico is located
Marina pontoons at Centro Nautico.
The cost at this marina is around R$21 per day and the facilities, while not to Marina Bahia standard, are pretty good. This is where most cruising yachts moor and there is a friendly atmosphere. Several yachties appeared and helped with mooring.
The location is much more central with good security. I spent the rest of the day pottering around the boat and did not leave the marina.
After chatting with the german skipper moored next to me I decided to move. He had ventured outside Bahia Marina on foot and started to walk up to Cidade Alta. He was attacked by 5 youths with machetes and a dog. One knee was slashed by machete and the other savaged by the dog. His backpack, camera and money were taken.
Bahia Marina has good facilities but it's exposure to surge, dangerous location and high cost make it a poor option.
We left at 09:30 and after stopping to fill up with fuel in Bahia Marina (R$1.89 per litre) we motored around to the Centro Nautico where we moored on the inside of Pontoon A at 10:40.
Approaching Centro Nautico.
Fort guarding the bay in which Centro Nautico is located
Marina pontoons at Centro Nautico.
The cost at this marina is around R$21 per day and the facilities, while not to Marina Bahia standard, are pretty good. This is where most cruising yachts moor and there is a friendly atmosphere. Several yachties appeared and helped with mooring.
The location is much more central with good security. I spent the rest of the day pottering around the boat and did not leave the marina.
On Passage - Recife to Salvador
21/03/08 22:22 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
16th March 2008
I had planned to leave earlier but there were still a few things to do. The crew from Northern Star dinghied over to say goodbye. At 08:50 we dropped the mooring off P.I.C. and proceeded to sea clearing the harbour at 09:36. Next stop Rio de Janeiro. I enjoyed the 10 days in Recife and would certainly visit again.
Passing Point Zero outward bound from Recife.
The cruise line Pacific on her way in.
A last view of Olinda.
The wind was SE 2-3 and we motor sailed till 10:15. The strategy was to get outside the 100m depth contour to be well clear of any fishermen. For the rest of the day and through the night the wind was variable in speed and direction. We resorted to the engine several times. At sunset the two 38 story apartment blocks adjacent to P.I.C. were still visible.
17th March 2008
We passed quite a few big ships during the night but no fishermen. There were also frequent rain squalls. Those that hit us were quite nasty with gusts in one reaching 30 knots. Ideally the boat can be reefed down before they hit but this is not always possible. Particularly at night.
During the day we had variable but mostly easterly winds F2-3. There were several calms when we used the engine. Progress was poor with a noon run of only 60 miles.
There seemed to be a lot of aquatic activity with schools of fish frequently jumping out of the water, presumably to evade predators. Late in the afternoon the wind steadied from the east and we were able to sail slowly through the night.
18th March 2008
Dawn saw more rain squalls. Some hit us and some passed close. All bought strong winds for short periods requiring frequent sail handling.
An angry looking rain squall approaching.
During the morning the wind was variable F1-2 and we mostly motor sailed. The noon run was another paltry 59 miles. At that speed and in those conditons we did not have enough fuel to reach Rio. After working the numbers I decided to divert to Salvador some 280 miles away.
There was no improvement during the afternoon and we mostly motorsailed. The only usable wind was near squalls.
19th March 2008
After motoring through the early hours and much of the previous day we had a better noon run of 95.1 miles. By 10:00 there was sufficient wind to sail.
We had winds of F6 during one squall but outside these the wind was mainly easterly at F4. It was mainly cloudy and somewhat cooler. These conditions persisted throughout the night and we had to reef down to 3 in the main and the staysail during squalls. During the night the main was usually reefed to 2 or 3 as a safety precaution should be be caught by a sudden squall.
20th March 2008
Conditions were broadly similar during the morning and our noon run was 89.3 miles, mostly under sail. During the afternoon we motor sailed from time to time when the wind eased but we continued to make good progress towards Salvador.
Sunset was particularly spectacular.
There was no respite from the squalls which continued through the night.
21st March 2008
During the morning we closed on the coast under sail in squally conditions. Be noon we were close to Salvador with a run of 85 miles.
Approaching Salvador from the north east.
At 12:53 we passed Punta San Antonio light inbound to Salvador.
A violent squall passed through as we entered Bahia de Todos os Santos where the port of Salvador is located.
At 13:45 we were off Bahia marina.
This is a modern purpose built marina and the first I have seen with security on the seaward side. We were required to report in on radio and identify ourselves before proceeding in.
With the help of two marinheiros we were secure at Pontoon C, Berth 89 at 14:30. This marina cost R$52 per night which is expensive for Brazil. It is a secure compound complete with chandlers, numerous restaurants and good facilities. However it suffers from surge to such an extent that the outer pontoon had been damaged and was not in normal use.
Bahia Marina is about a 15 minute work from the elevator which connects the upper and lower parts of old Salvador. However the Rough Guide has this to say about Avenida do Contorno which is the main road passing the marina. "Give this road a miss. It's dangerous even in daylight when gangs lie in wait for tourists who don't know any better".
After evening fell, around 19:00, I decided to take a taxi up to the Cidade Alta. It was weird. Very poorly light with shadowy figures lurking in doorways. I thought I was on the set of a George Romero film and decided, much to the puzzlement of the driver, to go straight back to the marina. Not a good start to my visit to Salvador.
Trip Summary:
Distance: 416.4 miles. Av Speed: 3.31 knots. Duration: 5 days 5 hours 40 min.
I had planned to leave earlier but there were still a few things to do. The crew from Northern Star dinghied over to say goodbye. At 08:50 we dropped the mooring off P.I.C. and proceeded to sea clearing the harbour at 09:36. Next stop Rio de Janeiro. I enjoyed the 10 days in Recife and would certainly visit again.
Passing Point Zero outward bound from Recife.
The cruise line Pacific on her way in.
A last view of Olinda.
The wind was SE 2-3 and we motor sailed till 10:15. The strategy was to get outside the 100m depth contour to be well clear of any fishermen. For the rest of the day and through the night the wind was variable in speed and direction. We resorted to the engine several times. At sunset the two 38 story apartment blocks adjacent to P.I.C. were still visible.
17th March 2008
We passed quite a few big ships during the night but no fishermen. There were also frequent rain squalls. Those that hit us were quite nasty with gusts in one reaching 30 knots. Ideally the boat can be reefed down before they hit but this is not always possible. Particularly at night.
During the day we had variable but mostly easterly winds F2-3. There were several calms when we used the engine. Progress was poor with a noon run of only 60 miles.
There seemed to be a lot of aquatic activity with schools of fish frequently jumping out of the water, presumably to evade predators. Late in the afternoon the wind steadied from the east and we were able to sail slowly through the night.
18th March 2008
Dawn saw more rain squalls. Some hit us and some passed close. All bought strong winds for short periods requiring frequent sail handling.
An angry looking rain squall approaching.
During the morning the wind was variable F1-2 and we mostly motor sailed. The noon run was another paltry 59 miles. At that speed and in those conditons we did not have enough fuel to reach Rio. After working the numbers I decided to divert to Salvador some 280 miles away.
There was no improvement during the afternoon and we mostly motorsailed. The only usable wind was near squalls.
19th March 2008
After motoring through the early hours and much of the previous day we had a better noon run of 95.1 miles. By 10:00 there was sufficient wind to sail.
We had winds of F6 during one squall but outside these the wind was mainly easterly at F4. It was mainly cloudy and somewhat cooler. These conditions persisted throughout the night and we had to reef down to 3 in the main and the staysail during squalls. During the night the main was usually reefed to 2 or 3 as a safety precaution should be be caught by a sudden squall.
20th March 2008
Conditions were broadly similar during the morning and our noon run was 89.3 miles, mostly under sail. During the afternoon we motor sailed from time to time when the wind eased but we continued to make good progress towards Salvador.
Sunset was particularly spectacular.
There was no respite from the squalls which continued through the night.
21st March 2008
During the morning we closed on the coast under sail in squally conditions. Be noon we were close to Salvador with a run of 85 miles.
Approaching Salvador from the north east.
At 12:53 we passed Punta San Antonio light inbound to Salvador.
A violent squall passed through as we entered Bahia de Todos os Santos where the port of Salvador is located.
At 13:45 we were off Bahia marina.
This is a modern purpose built marina and the first I have seen with security on the seaward side. We were required to report in on radio and identify ourselves before proceeding in.
With the help of two marinheiros we were secure at Pontoon C, Berth 89 at 14:30. This marina cost R$52 per night which is expensive for Brazil. It is a secure compound complete with chandlers, numerous restaurants and good facilities. However it suffers from surge to such an extent that the outer pontoon had been damaged and was not in normal use.
Bahia Marina is about a 15 minute work from the elevator which connects the upper and lower parts of old Salvador. However the Rough Guide has this to say about Avenida do Contorno which is the main road passing the marina. "Give this road a miss. It's dangerous even in daylight when gangs lie in wait for tourists who don't know any better".
After evening fell, around 19:00, I decided to take a taxi up to the Cidade Alta. It was weird. Very poorly light with shadowy figures lurking in doorways. I thought I was on the set of a George Romero film and decided, much to the puzzlement of the driver, to go straight back to the marina. Not a good start to my visit to Salvador.
Trip Summary:
Distance: 416.4 miles. Av Speed: 3.31 knots. Duration: 5 days 5 hours 40 min.
Last Day
A reasonably early start saw me get the ferry across to Point Zero and then catch a bus out to shopping Recife and the supermarket Bon Precio to stock up for the trip to Rio.
By the time I got back to the boat it was very very hot and in the rush to get everything stowed out of the heat I dropped one bag of shopping in the river. It was retrieved with no damage to the contents. Thank goodness for plastic wrapping.
At nightfall the boat was ready for sea. Later at 21:30 I caught a taxi to Chevrolet hall to see Julio.
This was a huge venue where the audience sat at tables of four and were served food and drink until show time. Julio came on at about 22:30 and did his thing for till around 00:30. It was a very professional performance much appreciated by the mainly female audience but I thought it lacked energy. Probably not surprising since he is getting on a bit
The show also included an excellent tango couple.
I thought the doo-wah girls were quite superb.
There were plenty of taxis after the show and after yet another late night trip through Recife running red lights I was back on board by about 01:30.
By the time I got back to the boat it was very very hot and in the rush to get everything stowed out of the heat I dropped one bag of shopping in the river. It was retrieved with no damage to the contents. Thank goodness for plastic wrapping.
At nightfall the boat was ready for sea. Later at 21:30 I caught a taxi to Chevrolet hall to see Julio.
This was a huge venue where the audience sat at tables of four and were served food and drink until show time. Julio came on at about 22:30 and did his thing for till around 00:30. It was a very professional performance much appreciated by the mainly female audience but I thought it lacked energy. Probably not surprising since he is getting on a bit
The show also included an excellent tango couple.
I thought the doo-wah girls were quite superb.
There were plenty of taxis after the show and after yet another late night trip through Recife running red lights I was back on board by about 01:30.
Checkout Day
By 09:30 I was in the offices of the Policia Federal being issued an exit permit for departure on Sunday. Then on to the other 3 agencies and the whole process was completed in about an hour and a half.
Took a bus out to Shopping Recife to get some cash as there appear to be no banks that accept foreign cards in the centre of Recife.
Then I walked over to the Chinese/Brazilian laundry and picked up my wash. They did a terrific job and even ironed everything including the tea towels.
Spent the rest of the afternoon and evening preparing for departure.
Took a bus out to Shopping Recife to get some cash as there appear to be no banks that accept foreign cards in the centre of Recife.
Then I walked over to the Chinese/Brazilian laundry and picked up my wash. They did a terrific job and even ironed everything including the tea towels.
Spent the rest of the afternoon and evening preparing for departure.
Olinda
Took the rowboat ferry across to Point Zero and caught a bus to Olinda. The drivers press on and the roads are quite bumpy which makes for a robust ride.
Olinda is about 12 km north of Recife and is a very pretty spot where the process of restoration is much further advanced than in Recife. It is a Unesco world heritage site.
I spent a relaxed couple of hours walking around. It was quite hilly and the high point is called Sé from where there are panoramic views out to sea and south to Recife.
Praca de Abolicao
Rua de São Franciso - going up
Rua de São Franciso - going down
View from Praca de Sé towards Recife.
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Igreja do Carmo from Praca de Sé .
Praca de Sé
Port of Recife seen from Praca de Sé with Boa Viagem in the distance
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Coat of Arms on the ceiling of Monasterio de Sao Bento
Somewhat lurid altar at Monasterio de Sao Bento.
Very tall palms in Praca de Abolicao
Praca de Abolicao
In the middle of Olinda I had lunch in a garden buffet restaurant where one's selection is paid for by weight.
On the way way back I got off the bus at Recife station. A brand new station has been built but the old one has been retained as a small railway museum.
Old station - Recife
Locomotive in the livery of Rede Ferroviária do Nordeste. This was originally an English company before it was nationalised. It has since returned to private Brazilian ownership.
1952 Henschel Locomotive. This company also used to manufacture Panzer tanks and is now owned by Bombardier of Montreal, Canada.
The new station in Recife.
Later in the evening I revisited Spirit Music Hall for some more Forró music.
Olinda is about 12 km north of Recife and is a very pretty spot where the process of restoration is much further advanced than in Recife. It is a Unesco world heritage site.
I spent a relaxed couple of hours walking around. It was quite hilly and the high point is called Sé from where there are panoramic views out to sea and south to Recife.
Praca de Abolicao
Rua de São Franciso - going up
Rua de São Franciso - going down
View from Praca de Sé towards Recife.
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Igreja do Carmo from Praca de Sé .
Praca de Sé
Port of Recife seen from Praca de Sé with Boa Viagem in the distance
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Coat of Arms on the ceiling of Monasterio de Sao Bento
Somewhat lurid altar at Monasterio de Sao Bento.
Very tall palms in Praca de Abolicao
Praca de Abolicao
In the middle of Olinda I had lunch in a garden buffet restaurant where one's selection is paid for by weight.
On the way way back I got off the bus at Recife station. A brand new station has been built but the old one has been retained as a small railway museum.
Old station - Recife
Locomotive in the livery of Rede Ferroviária do Nordeste. This was originally an English company before it was nationalised. It has since returned to private Brazilian ownership.
1952 Henschel Locomotive. This company also used to manufacture Panzer tanks and is now owned by Bombardier of Montreal, Canada.
The new station in Recife.
Later in the evening I revisited Spirit Music Hall for some more Forró music.
Recife
It was very very hot today without much of a cooling breeze.
I started preparing the boat for departure on sunday morning, weather permitting, and did a little dinghy shuttle with a 20L water container to fill our fresh water tanks of which we only have 100L capacity instead of 150L due to the failure of our newest tank. As a precaution 5 capfuls of Milton were added to the water taken aboard.
In the evening there were more birthday celebrations (471) for Recife and a very large cake had been baked. Locals queued round several blocks to obtain a piece.
Had dinner in a little restaurant in Barrio Recife and lingered to watch some live music where about 8 people took turns to sing accompanied by a large group of musicians.
Then I made another visit to Jardins Bar and Restaurant for some more live music before eventually returning to the boat at 03:30
I started preparing the boat for departure on sunday morning, weather permitting, and did a little dinghy shuttle with a 20L water container to fill our fresh water tanks of which we only have 100L capacity instead of 150L due to the failure of our newest tank. As a precaution 5 capfuls of Milton were added to the water taken aboard.
In the evening there were more birthday celebrations (471) for Recife and a very large cake had been baked. Locals queued round several blocks to obtain a piece.
Had dinner in a little restaurant in Barrio Recife and lingered to watch some live music where about 8 people took turns to sing accompanied by a large group of musicians.
Then I made another visit to Jardins Bar and Restaurant for some more live music before eventually returning to the boat at 03:30
Recife
Another trip to Chevrolet Hall. This time they had decided to split tables and I got my ticket.
I will be sitting with 3 Brazillians who I will meet on the night. Should be an interesting evening.
For the past few days I have been trying to track down a laundry. In the end I decided to call a taxi and ask to be taken to one. This proved easier said than done. The taxi company wanted a detailed directions to PIC but this was beyond my very limited Portuguese. I asked a young chap who was just leaving the club to give them instructions.
I ended up in a car with this chap still talking to the taxi company and his friend driving. Eventually the phone conversation ended without resolution and costing me £10 in roaming charges even on my special cheap tariff.
These two chaps took me to a laundry themselves and invited me for an early evening drink at a place they liked. This turned out to be the forecourt of a Texaco service station. They sell beer at service stations in Brazil and even provide plastic chairs and tables where it can be drunk before driving away.
Our driver parked his car with the back close to a plastic table and flipped open the hatchback to reveal an array of speakers on an industrial scale. When some tunes were put on the earth did move. There we were sitting drinking beer on a garage forecourt listening to tunes from the in-car entertainment system.
After and hour or so of this they took me back to the boat. Fortunately for our driver drink driving laws do not seem to be strictly enforced here.
I will be sitting with 3 Brazillians who I will meet on the night. Should be an interesting evening.
For the past few days I have been trying to track down a laundry. In the end I decided to call a taxi and ask to be taken to one. This proved easier said than done. The taxi company wanted a detailed directions to PIC but this was beyond my very limited Portuguese. I asked a young chap who was just leaving the club to give them instructions.
I ended up in a car with this chap still talking to the taxi company and his friend driving. Eventually the phone conversation ended without resolution and costing me £10 in roaming charges even on my special cheap tariff.
These two chaps took me to a laundry themselves and invited me for an early evening drink at a place they liked. This turned out to be the forecourt of a Texaco service station. They sell beer at service stations in Brazil and even provide plastic chairs and tables where it can be drunk before driving away.
Our driver parked his car with the back close to a plastic table and flipped open the hatchback to reveal an array of speakers on an industrial scale. When some tunes were put on the earth did move. There we were sitting drinking beer on a garage forecourt listening to tunes from the in-car entertainment system.
After and hour or so of this they took me back to the boat. Fortunately for our driver drink driving laws do not seem to be strictly enforced here.
Recife
Up the mast again to refit the anemometer. It seems to be working OK but for how long!
The window still leaked overnight. Grrr!
A few errands to run. A couple of days ago my power adaptor for the Mac was kicked and broken in the coffee shop and I needed a replacement. On saturday Julio Iglesias is live in concert at Chevrolet Hall in Recife. I want to go.
A taxi took me to Chevrolet hall where I was informed that individual tickets were not available and that one had to purchase a table ticket seating 4 at R$150 per person. Even Julio is not worth R$600 so I declined but was asked to return tomorrow as they might be able to sort something out. The taxi had waited so we went off to a the local Apple dealer, Tropical Mac, who did not have the plug I wanted. Not a successful trip.
Back at PIC moorings a beautiful 58ft Danish X-Yacht, Northern Star, had arrived and I was invited on board for a drink. Her crew, a danish couple, were 4 years into a circumnavigation.
The window still leaked overnight. Grrr!
A few errands to run. A couple of days ago my power adaptor for the Mac was kicked and broken in the coffee shop and I needed a replacement. On saturday Julio Iglesias is live in concert at Chevrolet Hall in Recife. I want to go.
A taxi took me to Chevrolet hall where I was informed that individual tickets were not available and that one had to purchase a table ticket seating 4 at R$150 per person. Even Julio is not worth R$600 so I declined but was asked to return tomorrow as they might be able to sort something out. The taxi had waited so we went off to a the local Apple dealer, Tropical Mac, who did not have the plug I wanted. Not a successful trip.
Back at PIC moorings a beautiful 58ft Danish X-Yacht, Northern Star, had arrived and I was invited on board for a drink. Her crew, a danish couple, were 4 years into a circumnavigation.
Boat Maintenance
Time to attend to a few maintenance issues. On the way to Fortaleza our Raymarine (Autohelm) anemometer failed again. I thought it may just have clogged from a mixture of dust and salt picked up off the african coast. Despite frequent rainstorms in Brazil it refused to function.
I fetched it from the top of the mast and close inspection showed that it had seized again having been in use less than two years since the last repair. This is really not good enough and the current range is not backward compatible so a new unit costs in excess of £800.
Raymarine (Autohelm) ST50 Wind
The faulty unit had a buildup of reddish material around the shaft which was seized solid. I gave it a good dose of electrical duck oil and a few hours later the shaft spun freely.
Anemometer Cups
Anemometer unit with seized shaft.
Push fit unit removed from housing.
Since I got this boat in 2005 there had been an intermittent leak from the starboard sealed cabin window. In Brazil, with heavy rain showers, this leak becomes a flow. I applied some sealant to a small hole near the window frame.
I fetched it from the top of the mast and close inspection showed that it had seized again having been in use less than two years since the last repair. This is really not good enough and the current range is not backward compatible so a new unit costs in excess of £800.
Raymarine (Autohelm) ST50 Wind
The faulty unit had a buildup of reddish material around the shaft which was seized solid. I gave it a good dose of electrical duck oil and a few hours later the shaft spun freely.
Anemometer Cups
Anemometer unit with seized shaft.
Push fit unit removed from housing.
Since I got this boat in 2005 there had been an intermittent leak from the starboard sealed cabin window. In Brazil, with heavy rain showers, this leak becomes a flow. I applied some sealant to a small hole near the window frame.
Recife
Today I visited Shopping Recife, one of the largest shopping malls in Brazil. It could have been anywhere in the western world and was enormous if not particularly interesting.
To get there I caught a city bus costing R$2. The ride was more interesting than the destination as we wandered through Recife. These buses have a turnstile inside the bus where a conductor sits and collects fares as passengers pass through. There was an area where people sat before the turnstile. The purpose of this area was not clear.
Gringos are warned not to catch these buses but I felt safe and saw no signs nastiness.
To get there I caught a city bus costing R$2. The ride was more interesting than the destination as we wandered through Recife. These buses have a turnstile inside the bus where a conductor sits and collects fares as passengers pass through. There was an area where people sat before the turnstile. The purpose of this area was not clear.
Gringos are warned not to catch these buses but I felt safe and saw no signs nastiness.
Recife
Managed to sleep in this morning and didn't emerge till after 11.
Just up river from our mooring two new 39 story apartment blocks rise from a derelict dock area. The fisherman in the foreground ekes out a living catching small fish from the river.
There are two ways to get from Pernambuco Iate Club to central Recife. One is via taxi the long way round and the other is to walk along the breakwater and catch a water ferry from the sculpture park during daylight hours only.
The skyline and beach at Boa Viagem.
Waterfront on Recife Island. The oldest part of Recife.
Main harbour with Olinda in the background.
Breakwater built on a natural reef with the outer breakwater built on another reef Banco de Ingles.
Iate Club do Pernambuco (PIC)
Breakwater reef at Recife.
Parc des Esculturas by Francisco Brennand.
Renovation near the site of last night's concert.
One old building on Recife island has been restored and now functions as a multi level shopping and restaurant complex. It's main attraction for me was unlimited high speed access for the price of a coffee.
Later back at the yacht club I met some of the members who mentioned that local boats rarely venture north of Natal to Fortaleza because the return passage is so difficult. Ah well, this is what is called local knowledge. Lesson learned. If heading for south america from the Canaries or Cape Verdes make a landfall at Recife and not any ports further north.
I also met the skipper of a Brazilian catamaran who had been in Fortaleza when we were there. He also had a difficult passage round from Fortaleza. He preferred to be called Z and around midnight we went into Recife to watch a local bluses band at Burburinho's bar and comeria.
This was a bit like a university pub and the music was good. Another late night as I got back on board around 04:00.
Just up river from our mooring two new 39 story apartment blocks rise from a derelict dock area. The fisherman in the foreground ekes out a living catching small fish from the river.
There are two ways to get from Pernambuco Iate Club to central Recife. One is via taxi the long way round and the other is to walk along the breakwater and catch a water ferry from the sculpture park during daylight hours only.
The skyline and beach at Boa Viagem.
Waterfront on Recife Island. The oldest part of Recife.
Main harbour with Olinda in the background.
Breakwater built on a natural reef with the outer breakwater built on another reef Banco de Ingles.
Iate Club do Pernambuco (PIC)
Breakwater reef at Recife.
Parc des Esculturas by Francisco Brennand.
Renovation near the site of last night's concert.
One old building on Recife island has been restored and now functions as a multi level shopping and restaurant complex. It's main attraction for me was unlimited high speed access for the price of a coffee.
Later back at the yacht club I met some of the members who mentioned that local boats rarely venture north of Natal to Fortaleza because the return passage is so difficult. Ah well, this is what is called local knowledge. Lesson learned. If heading for south america from the Canaries or Cape Verdes make a landfall at Recife and not any ports further north.
I also met the skipper of a Brazilian catamaran who had been in Fortaleza when we were there. He also had a difficult passage round from Fortaleza. He preferred to be called Z and around midnight we went into Recife to watch a local bluses band at Burburinho's bar and comeria.
This was a bit like a university pub and the music was good. Another late night as I got back on board around 04:00.
Around Recife
Not much time for sleeping.
Eduardo had offered to assist me with formalities and wanted to leave at 08:00. First stop was the Policia Federal followed by Receita Federal, Ministerio da Saude and finally Capitania dos Portos. The process was completed in about an hour and a half, much quicker than at Fortaleza.
It is the 514th anniversary of the founding of Recife and celebrations were held in the evening in the old town. Firstly actors staged a reconstruction of key events from Recife's history followed by a concert until after midnight.
The colourful state flag of Pernambuco. Recife is the capital of Pernambuco.
Historic play.
This member of the audience of rather his t-shirt intrigued me. Heckler & Koch are suppliers of precision small arms to governments and others around the world but this seemed a very aggresive form of promotion. On checking I found they use one slogan. "Heckler & Koch, No Compromise"
The weapon on the t-shirt looks like an MP5N. I concluded that this was an unofficial t-shirt and odd apparel at a music concert.
Police where in evidence everywhere.
These are Policia Militar who in spite of their name are under the control of the state governor. A bit like american state police. Also in evidence were a few members of the Policia Militar Batalhão de Choque known as "Choque". These are a bit like the CRS in France and not to be messed with.
Their services were not required and so far I have seen no incident requiring police action. Recife is reportedly the most dangerous city in Brazil.
Scenes from the old town on Recife Island.
I had decided to listen to some more Forró music and got a taxi to Spirit Music Hall where Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos were again in concert. Brazil also has no smoking laws in public places but some are allowed to provide a smoking room. Spirit Music Hall had named theirs FumoDromo.
Back on board slightly earlier at 03:45.
Eduardo had offered to assist me with formalities and wanted to leave at 08:00. First stop was the Policia Federal followed by Receita Federal, Ministerio da Saude and finally Capitania dos Portos. The process was completed in about an hour and a half, much quicker than at Fortaleza.
It is the 514th anniversary of the founding of Recife and celebrations were held in the evening in the old town. Firstly actors staged a reconstruction of key events from Recife's history followed by a concert until after midnight.
The colourful state flag of Pernambuco. Recife is the capital of Pernambuco.
Historic play.
This member of the audience of rather his t-shirt intrigued me. Heckler & Koch are suppliers of precision small arms to governments and others around the world but this seemed a very aggresive form of promotion. On checking I found they use one slogan. "Heckler & Koch, No Compromise"
The weapon on the t-shirt looks like an MP5N. I concluded that this was an unofficial t-shirt and odd apparel at a music concert.
Police where in evidence everywhere.
These are Policia Militar who in spite of their name are under the control of the state governor. A bit like american state police. Also in evidence were a few members of the Policia Militar Batalhão de Choque known as "Choque". These are a bit like the CRS in France and not to be messed with.
Their services were not required and so far I have seen no incident requiring police action. Recife is reportedly the most dangerous city in Brazil.
Scenes from the old town on Recife Island.
I had decided to listen to some more Forró music and got a taxi to Spirit Music Hall where Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos were again in concert. Brazil also has no smoking laws in public places but some are allowed to provide a smoking room. Spirit Music Hall had named theirs FumoDromo.
Back on board slightly earlier at 03:45.
Arrival Recife
At 06:35 we entered Recife harbour. Not particularly stunning visually but a very tranquil and safe haven.
The breakwater on the left is built on a natural reef after which the city is named.
We were bound for the Pernambuco Yacht Club situated a couple of miles into the harbour on the seaward side. When we arrived at 07:I5 I expected to anchor but someone appeared on the club pontoon jumped into a dinghy and came out to direct us to and assist us with picking up a club mooring.
I spent some time squaring the boat away before inflating the dinghy and going ashore for an early lunch. At this point the chap who had assisted with mooring appeared and introduced himself as Eduardo. I had to fill out a form and the mooring would cost R$5 per day. Anything I needed he would do his best to assist.
Rernambuco Yacht Club was founded in 1949 but now has only around 20 members and is undergoing an organisational and structural refurbishment.
Eduardo kindly offered to row me across to Recife Island to have a look around. Recife, which means reef, is a very dfferent proposition to Fortaleza. The old town on Recife island, one of three on which the town is built, includes a large number of colonial buildings many of which have been restored or are being restored.
I called at a very helpful tourist office and was provided with event listings and detailed maps. There seems to be a lot going on.
Eduardo returned to collect me and I returned to the boat for a few hours before venturing out to sample some Brazilian music. Here most live music starts around midnight.
I got a taxi to Jardins Bar e Restaurante just after midnight. Many people eat at the restaurant and stay on for the music. Entertainment was provided by the Forró band Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos. Forró music has it's origins in the north east of Brazil and I really liked it.
Forró dancing is something to behold. The couples legs intertwine and with a close or slightly more distant embrace (depending on how well they know each other?) this posture is maintained throughout the dance as they move about with absolute precision. If it sounds complicated it certainly looked it.
After two and a half non stop hours of music it was time to leave. I've noticed that in Brazil most money changes hands at the cashier. At Jardins guests were issued with a swipe card which bar staff used to record any drinks ordered. Then when one leaves payment is made to the cashier and door staff then check the swipe card to ensure nothing is owed before allowing departure. After the show the cashiers queue was over 30 min long.
I finally got back on board just after 04:00
The breakwater on the left is built on a natural reef after which the city is named.
We were bound for the Pernambuco Yacht Club situated a couple of miles into the harbour on the seaward side. When we arrived at 07:I5 I expected to anchor but someone appeared on the club pontoon jumped into a dinghy and came out to direct us to and assist us with picking up a club mooring.
I spent some time squaring the boat away before inflating the dinghy and going ashore for an early lunch. At this point the chap who had assisted with mooring appeared and introduced himself as Eduardo. I had to fill out a form and the mooring would cost R$5 per day. Anything I needed he would do his best to assist.
Rernambuco Yacht Club was founded in 1949 but now has only around 20 members and is undergoing an organisational and structural refurbishment.
Eduardo kindly offered to row me across to Recife Island to have a look around. Recife, which means reef, is a very dfferent proposition to Fortaleza. The old town on Recife island, one of three on which the town is built, includes a large number of colonial buildings many of which have been restored or are being restored.
I called at a very helpful tourist office and was provided with event listings and detailed maps. There seems to be a lot going on.
Eduardo returned to collect me and I returned to the boat for a few hours before venturing out to sample some Brazilian music. Here most live music starts around midnight.
I got a taxi to Jardins Bar e Restaurante just after midnight. Many people eat at the restaurant and stay on for the music. Entertainment was provided by the Forró band Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos. Forró music has it's origins in the north east of Brazil and I really liked it.
Forró dancing is something to behold. The couples legs intertwine and with a close or slightly more distant embrace (depending on how well they know each other?) this posture is maintained throughout the dance as they move about with absolute precision. If it sounds complicated it certainly looked it.
After two and a half non stop hours of music it was time to leave. I've noticed that in Brazil most money changes hands at the cashier. At Jardins guests were issued with a swipe card which bar staff used to record any drinks ordered. Then when one leaves payment is made to the cashier and door staff then check the swipe card to ensure nothing is owed before allowing departure. After the show the cashiers queue was over 30 min long.
I finally got back on board just after 04:00
On Passage - Fortaleza to Recife
05/03/08 22:02 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
Earlier in Passage
1st March 2008
Around 04:00 we were hit by a series of angry line squalls with very heavy rain. At least the sails got a good wash.
As the squalls passed the wind veered SE F5-6 with short choppy seas and clear skies. This was going to be hard work as our course was bang into the wind. Fortaleza was only 1.5 days away in these conditions and for a moment I toyed with the idea of turning around.
We pressed on assuming that once round Cabo Calcanhar the wind would be more manageable. We had to get round first though. Between 04:00 and 16:00 we made only 14 miles to windward. with another 20 miles to go until our course change. To make life easier I chose to go back inshore of some fish farms and a buoyed rock. Fortunately there were no fishing boats. We had to tack frequently throughout the night.
2nd March 2008
We rounded Cabo Calcanhar in the early hours. Finally. At 08:00 we had covered only 80 miles in 2 days.
Tacking continued throughout the day and by evening it was going well with much better net gains on our course just east of south.
Around sunset a motorised fishing boat approached quite rapidly. Having read several reports of piracy by fisherman on this coast I became very nervous and ducked down below to hide my passport and credit cards. The boat closed to within about 60m with the 4 crew gesticulating and pointing ahead. I think they were indicating that I should alter course to clear an area where they wanted to work. Phew, thank goodness.
I altered 90º to port and went a further 8 miles out to sea.
Later we had more line squalls follwed by a drop in wind speed. During the night progress towards Recife slowed considerably.
3rd March 2008
At 07:15 we were off Natal and the wind dropped to light and variable with the sails flapping uselessly. After bobbing about for an hour and a half I put the engine on and we continued south.
At 11:00 some wind returned. SE3, and we resumed sailing under full rig. We were able to make good ground to the south on each tack but at a cost of going to within 2 miles of land. Noon run 59.3 miles.
By motor sailing we could gain another 10º to windward and avoid tacking. I put the engine on and we motorsailed throughout the night going well out to sea.
4th March 2008
We continued motorsailing throughout the night and morning until rounding Cabo Branco at 12:00 when we could resume sailing. Noon Run 78.38.
It was downhill now with lighter winds SE 3-4. We had a very relaxing sail and at midnight Recife was only 17.5 miles away.
5th March 2008
There was no question of going into Recife at night so we sailed slowly down the coast. Inshore there was a huge array of lights from small fishing boats strung out along the 20 m depth contour. A cruise ship slowly made it's way past this display before resuming full speed north.
The wind gradually eased and at 03:30 we were 8 miles off Recife. Course was altered for the south end of Banco Ingles. An hour later there was no wind and we motored slowly in passing Banco Ingles at 06:15 having had a good view of Olinda light on the way.
1st March 2008
Around 04:00 we were hit by a series of angry line squalls with very heavy rain. At least the sails got a good wash.
As the squalls passed the wind veered SE F5-6 with short choppy seas and clear skies. This was going to be hard work as our course was bang into the wind. Fortaleza was only 1.5 days away in these conditions and for a moment I toyed with the idea of turning around.
We pressed on assuming that once round Cabo Calcanhar the wind would be more manageable. We had to get round first though. Between 04:00 and 16:00 we made only 14 miles to windward. with another 20 miles to go until our course change. To make life easier I chose to go back inshore of some fish farms and a buoyed rock. Fortunately there were no fishing boats. We had to tack frequently throughout the night.
2nd March 2008
We rounded Cabo Calcanhar in the early hours. Finally. At 08:00 we had covered only 80 miles in 2 days.
Tacking continued throughout the day and by evening it was going well with much better net gains on our course just east of south.
Around sunset a motorised fishing boat approached quite rapidly. Having read several reports of piracy by fisherman on this coast I became very nervous and ducked down below to hide my passport and credit cards. The boat closed to within about 60m with the 4 crew gesticulating and pointing ahead. I think they were indicating that I should alter course to clear an area where they wanted to work. Phew, thank goodness.
I altered 90º to port and went a further 8 miles out to sea.
Later we had more line squalls follwed by a drop in wind speed. During the night progress towards Recife slowed considerably.
3rd March 2008
At 07:15 we were off Natal and the wind dropped to light and variable with the sails flapping uselessly. After bobbing about for an hour and a half I put the engine on and we continued south.
At 11:00 some wind returned. SE3, and we resumed sailing under full rig. We were able to make good ground to the south on each tack but at a cost of going to within 2 miles of land. Noon run 59.3 miles.
By motor sailing we could gain another 10º to windward and avoid tacking. I put the engine on and we motorsailed throughout the night going well out to sea.
4th March 2008
We continued motorsailing throughout the night and morning until rounding Cabo Branco at 12:00 when we could resume sailing. Noon Run 78.38.
It was downhill now with lighter winds SE 3-4. We had a very relaxing sail and at midnight Recife was only 17.5 miles away.
5th March 2008
There was no question of going into Recife at night so we sailed slowly down the coast. Inshore there was a huge array of lights from small fishing boats strung out along the 20 m depth contour. A cruise ship slowly made it's way past this display before resuming full speed north.
The wind gradually eased and at 03:30 we were 8 miles off Recife. Course was altered for the south end of Banco Ingles. An hour later there was no wind and we motored slowly in passing Banco Ingles at 06:15 having had a good view of Olinda light on the way.